Men’s dress and sport shirts feature many different collar styles including button-down, point, eyelet, wing-tip, medium/semi-spread and wide spread. The button-down collar is casual by nature and is best worn open collar or with a sport coat or a blazer. The wide spread, eyelet and wing-tip are more formal. Point and semi- spread collars offer the most versatility as they work with a tie, as well as open collar.
Usually, a higher armhole offers a better range of motion. The shape and size of an armhole and the sleeves affects how a shirt fits and looks on a person. Too much excess fabric hanging under the arm looks sloppy and too little ends up being uncomfortable and may even cut into the armpits. An ideal shirt, although it varies from person to person, has the top of the armhole on the natural shoulder line (directly above the armpit) with the bottom of the armhole slightly below the armpit.
The sleeve should have a tapered structure and follow the shape of the arms. When buttoned, the sleeve cuff should fall right at the top of the wrist.
Shirt Front Styles
There are three main styles:
Pockets on a shirt are a matter of personal preference. Dress or tuxedo shirts do not come with a pocket. Sport and casual work shirts are more functional and sometimes feature a shirt pocket.
Just like the shirt collar, there are several types of cuffs – one-button, two-button, convertible and French, and may vary by length and corner detail (rounded, mitered etc.). These can add great design details to a shirt. The one-button cuff is the most common dress and sport shirt cuff style. The French cuff is the most formal and requires cuff-links to be worn.
This is the area under the collar that drapes over the shoulder and holds the shirt backing together. There are two major styles of yokes – split (more formal) and one-piece (more common of the two). As the name suggests, a split-yoke is made with two pieces of fabric that are sewn together in the middle. A split yoke uses more fabric than a one-piece and takes longer to make. Shirts with split yokes may provide an advantage over a one-piece yoke as the fabrics are attached at an angle (also known as the fabric-bias), which provides a little stretch in the fabric when extending the arms forward.
Besides serving as a nice decorative design element on the back of the shirt, the hang loop provides a functional and practical solution for hanging shirts on a hook when a hanger is not readily available.
Men’s shirts come with three back pleat options – no pleats, center box pleats and side pleats (sometimes known as knife-pleats), and are a matter of personal preference.
Darts are two seams sewn into the back of the shirt to remove extra fabric from the lower back. They give a more tapered look to a shirt. They usually start just below the armpit and end a few inches above the shirt bottom. They can be quite tricky on shirts with patterns as the patterns may not match-up. They also make ironing shirts slightly difficult. Darts are a matter of personal preference and are more common on slim fit shirts and are popular in Europe.
A hem gusset is a small piece of triangular or rhombus shaped fabric that is sewn where the side seam meets the hem of the shirt. This is an area that experiences a lot of stress and the gusset adds reinforcement to this area.
A shirt tail should be long enough so it can be worn with the shirt tucked or untucked. A common trend in sports shirts is to wear them untucked. Here's a good way to gauge the length of the tail:
Untucked – the tail should fall just past the back pockets.
Tucked – raise your arms over your head. If the tail pops out of the pants, the shirt tail is not long enough.
We have crafted our shirts with the above details in mind. They provide the best in aesthetics, comfort and style. You can read more about our shirt details here.